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Evening Dress

Date1866-1867

Place CreatedParis, France

MediumCerulean blue ribbed silk; white tulle Label: Worth & Bobergh / 7 rue de la Paix 7 / Paris (stamped in gold on petersham waist stay)

ClassificationsCostumes

DimensionsCostume Element (Bodice) center front length: 8 1/4 inches; center back length: 7 3/4 inches; waist measurement: 21 3/8 inches;
Costume Element (Skirt) center front length: 42 inches; center back length: 71 inches; hem circumference: 17 ft ; waist measurement: 21 3/4 inches;
Costume Element (Streamer) L: 19 inches; W: 7 7/8 inches;
Costume Element (Fringe) L: 3 inches;

Credit LineGift of Richard H. L. Sexton and Eric H. L. Sexton, 1962

Terms

Object number62.190.1A-C

DescriptionBackground
In contrast with the extravagant designs normally associated with Maison Worth, the pristine silhouette and tender proportions of this gown demonstrate the restraint of which the house was equally capable. The sculptural clarity of this gown’s lines provides a textbook example for anyone interested in emulating its design.

Description
Bodice: Fitted; short-waist length; wide neck; short sleeves; pleated tulle ruffle at neck and sleeves; self trim at neck; self bows center front and sleeves; center front lace-up closure.

Skirt: Floor-length with train, fuller in back.

Belt: Self belt, horizontal pleats, center back bow and streamers.

Garment structure
This evening dress is a fine example of Worth’s ability to design simple gowns as easily and superbly as extravagant ones. The slightly trained crinoline of this dress is typical of the mid-1860s silhouette and features a flatter skirt front with its fullness pulled to the back and held in place with multiple cartridge pleats. The long seams on the skirt are hand sewn. Collar, bows, pleated belt, streamers, and fringed streamers are all fabricated of the self-same ribbed silk. The edges of the collar ruffle are cut with small scallops and left raw. The ruffle is pleated ½” from the upper edge and sewn to the edge of the collar with running stitches and is covered by a bias strip. The streamers on the front bow are cut with straight edges into points. Only a few seams on the bodice have been machine- stitched.

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